S13 Hatch Suspension Changes

Whew, another week has flown by! I’m really having a hard time finding a free moment to carve out a blog post lately, but I suppose being busy is a good thing in many ways. I spent a bit of time in the garage over the past week beginning some suspension updates I have been wanting to make on my hatch.

Though I’ve already gone through and refreshed the suspension on my hatch a few times over the years, my tastes and preferences have changed a little bit since then. After installing a number of NISMO suspension components on my coupe when I assembled it last summer, I have been wanting to swap out a lot of the parts on my hatch to match. I haven’t driven the coupe more than a handful of miles, but the ride quality and lack of squeaks and creaks from the NISMO bushings have me convinced they’re the way to go for a street car.

I received an order from RHD Japan including a number of the upgrades I’ve been wanting for the hatch for a while. The NISMO items consist of their S14 front lower control arms, power brace, steering rack bushings, subframe bushings, rear knuckle bushings, engine and transmission mounts, and rear lower control arms. I also decided to pick up another Cusco Type OS strut tower bar since I miss having one in the bay- but more on that in a future post. I’ve got just about all of these NISMO items on the coupe as well, aside from the front and rear lower control arms. After electing to go the cheaper route by adding those bushings and Moog ball joints to the stock arms on my coupe, I decided to just bite the bullet and safe myself some headache by buying the full control arm assemblies this time around.

I began by tearing into the front suspension first. I need to drop the rear subframe and take care of some improvements at the back of the car as well, but I am going to try to complete all of the tasks on the front end before I do that. We’ll already be into March next week and the weather is beginning to warm up a bit. The last thing I want to do is tear the car down too much and get discouraged. By only sticking to a few tasks at a time, hopefully I can keep the motivation flowing.

I’m now left with the front suspension completely removed from the car. After inspecting everything, I immediately wanted to replace just about everything and start from scratch. However, after investigating the cost and rationalizing a bit, I realized this is not necessary and would be pretty irresponsible. Most of the components up front are still in great shape, so I’ll just replace the few key items I set out to take care of in the first place and leave everything else alone so that I can have the car ready by the spring.

The main change I wanted to make up front is the switch to S14 front lower control arms and knuckles. I’ve read that this adds about 7mm to either side of the front suspension, which I hope will eliminate the need to run a spacer up front on my 17x9j +22 TE37- but we’ll have to see how everything sits once I am done. I was able to source a used pair of S14 front knuckles for the swap that need a fresh coat of paint before I can install them.

Anyway, that’s just about all of the progress I made this week. I am waiting on a few more parts to arrive for the front end before I can reassemble everything, but my goal is to have the front suspension back together by mid-March so that I can then begin the refresh on the rear suspension.

I’ll have some more photos and details on everything involved in the coming weeks as I make some progress. Thanks for reading and I hope you have a great weekend!


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S13 JDM Manual Seatbelt Swap

One key difference between the USDM S13 chassis from those in other parts of the world is the addition of automatic seatbelts. All US bound 240SX got the power seatbelt treatment, which is sort of a cool novelty in some ways- but not 25+ years later when the electronic components begin to fail. While it is a neat gadget that captures the time period when these cars were released, I sort of felt they were just a hassle to deal with and another item that could fail in the future.

The solution? Get a hold of a complete manual seatbelt conversion from a Canadian 240SX, European 200SX, or a 180SX from Japan. This was one of the first interior modifications I made to both of my S13s, with my hatch getting the manual belt treatment shortly after I bought it in 2008. Naturally, when I began building the coupe and converting the interior from brown to black, I chose to take the same route.

The complete manual seatbelt conversion in my hatch.

So- what’s needed to successfully convert your US S13 from electric/automatic to manual/traditional seatbelts? If you want to do it properly, you’ll need to source a pair of seatbelts, A and B pillar plastics, and a new headliner. The headliner is a detail that is often overlooked as they can sometimes be pretty difficult to source. I initially completed the conversion in my hatch without the headliner and found that there’s roughly a 2″ gap between the USDM headliner and the top of the A pillar plastics. This is due to the fact that the design of the USDM A and B pillar plastics have a space along the panels to allow room for the power seatbelt receiver to slide along the pillars on its track. Fortunately my friend Joe was able to get a hold of a Canadian S13 headliner for me and bring it over when he bought my Koguchi Power hood a few years back. This meant I was able to purchase it for next to nothing since the parts are cheap there and I didn’t have to pay for shipping.

It’s difficult to see, but towards the front of the Cusco cage you can make out the gap between the manual seatbelt A pillar plastic and the USDM headliner, exposing the metal roof. This old photo is the only reference I could find.
The Canadian headliner in my hatch. I sourced a sunroof cover from a 180SX in Japan since it didn’t have all of the cheesey warning text on it that the US covers have. Fits great!

There’s one key difference to note between the Canadian and JDM A pillar plastics. The 180SX and Silvia include a grab handle on the pillar for passengers to enter and exit the vehicle (or to grab onto during a mountain pass I guess.) While this is a pretty cool feature and I tend to always lean towards wanting whatever items from the Japanese cars I can get my hands on, it’s sort of an annoyance for 240SX owners since it is located on the driver’s side of our cars.

The Japanese A pillar plastics feature a grab handle for the passenger side. The Canadian panels are identical from left to right and look like the panel on the top in this photo.

When I initially sourced a Silvia seatbelt conversion, I was only able to get a hold of the Japanese A pillar panels with this handle as I couldn’t find a Canadian pair like those in my hatch. The biggest headache is the fact that most people do not include the metal bracket that is required to properly connect the handle to the chassis. I was finally able to track one down on Ebay to complete my setup.

A look at the A and B pillar plastics in the hatch. A pillar plastics are interchangeable between hatch and coupe.

As luck would have it, Stew from Western Canada was able to find a pair of Canadian B pillar panels from a local S13 part out and was willing to ship them to me. I received them around Christmas time and ended up replacing my JDM panels with the Canadian version. Both of my cars now have the smooth, clean A pillar panels now completing the conversion. One convenient detail to note is that the A pillar plastics between the S13 coupe and fastback are identical and interchangeable, which makes sourcing them a lot easier. Canada is definitely the place to go for a set of manual belt A pillar plastics.

You’ll also notice that S13 Silvia seatbelts are a bit different than the 180SX version. They include a plastic arm to help guide the seatbelt over your shoulder. I’m not sure why there’s this distinction between the two, but from my experience Silvia seatbelts are much harder to find these days. After searching on Yahoo! Auctions for what felt like ages, I finally found a clean and functional set.

Silvia seatbelts include this plastic arm to guide the belt and seem to be a bit trickier to find.

As for the B pillar plastics, those are different between the Silvia and 180SX for obvious reasons- the design of the rear quarter glass. I ended up finding the plastics for my coupe from a Silvia part out on YAJ and enlisted the help of Jesse Streeter to help bring them to the states. The shipping wasn’t exactly cheap, but the panels themselves were fairly inexpensive which helped keep the cost fairly reasonable.

A look at the S13 coupe manual seatbelt plastics. You’ll only need the B pillar and not the C pillar, but they’re plastic welded together from the factory. They can be easily separated though.

The final component needed for the coupe was the headliner. After striking out with trying to find one for a coupe without a sunroof in Canada, I finally bit the bullet and purchased one from a Silvia on YAJ. Though it cost about $18 USD, the overall price rose significantly when I had it shipped over. I used the Get JPN container service to bring the headliner from Japan to California, then had it shipped via Greyhound Package Express to Michigan. It was a long and costly process, but it allowed me to complete the interior of my coupe. Once again, it’s worth noting that headliners are different between the coupe and fastback, and also differ if you have a sunroof or not.

The complete manual seatbelt conversion in the coupe.

The cost of this conversion has gone up significantly over the last few years. I’ve seen a couple conversions without the headliner sell for upwards of $800 USD. I was fortunate to snag both of my setups for far less, but it’s one thing to think about when considering going this route. For many years, US S13 owners simply installed S14 seatbelts and trimmed their US panels to work. This is a more affordable route to go if your auto belts have stopped working and you need a solution. A set of A/B pillar plastics and the belts themselves used to go for around $150-200 which was much more reasonable, but as is the case with most things S13 these days, the parts have gotten somewhat difficult to come by.

Anyway, there you have it! I hope you find this information useful. The complete seatbelt conversion is something that most will overlook and simply take for granted, but it’s a cool addition to any US S13.

I’ve got some parts arriving for the hatch today and plan to spend some time in the garage this weekend. I should have some more info to share soon! Have an excellent weekend.


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S13 Windshield Molding Replacement

Man, I’ll be honest- this week flew by and I didn’t really have time to do any physical work on the cars out in my garage at all! But in the spirit of keeping the streak of Friday posts in 2021 alive, I thought I would make a quick post about some parts I recently picked up for the coupe.

If you remember my post a couple years back about replacement moldings and weather stripping for the S13, I’ve been trying to collect as many of these items new from Nissan as possible to have on hand for the eventual day that I am able to get my hatch painted. Naturally, after deciding to embark on the journey of building a second S13, I needed to source all of those items again for that car’s eventually paint job.

I’ve had most of the items that are still available brand new stored away for the coupe for a bit now, but the ones I have are essentially all the same as the hatch. The final area that I had been dragging my feet on picking up the parts for was the windshield. Fearing it would soon be discontinued, I finally managed to bring myself to order those items a couple weeks back.

While the windshield molding on my hatch could be worse off, the one on the coupe is pretty trashed. Most glass companies these days install a generic rubber seal in place of the factory unit as many are discontinued, expensive, and from what I am told a hassle to install properly. While this looks just fine and is absolutely the more cost-effective option, I was reminded once again by that strange tick I have developed over the years that I needed to have the factory molding.

I can’t speak from experience when it comes to what the installation process is like or if this includes every item that’s needed, but from studying schematics these are the items I have deemed necessary: 72750-52F10 – Reveal Molding, 72725-35F10 – Reveal Molding Retainer, and G2G16-89901 – Windshield Dam. I do know that the molding can be removed without pulling the glass based on my experience pulling one from a parts car a while back.

These items are fortunately all still available stateside which makes life easier. My go-to for parts like this is typically the fine folks at NissanParts.cc, but occasionally their shipping costs are just too high to make it all the way to me from Washington. I sometimes go with Courtesy Nissan Parts for that reason and they have been amazing to work with over the years as well. You really can’t go wrong with either option in my experience!

I’m planning to revisit my Molding Madness post soon to take another look at the restoration items I have collected for both cars, provide some part numbers, and update the information a bit with a couple items that have since been discontinued. It’s still one of the posts I get the most questions and messages about so I thought it might be worth revisiting sometime- so look for that in a future post soon!

While I didn’t end up in the garage this week, I did make some solid progress on my plans for both cars prior to the weather improving this spring. I am trying to find a good balance of ambitious improvements while still ensuring the cars are ready to be enjoyed as soon as possible. We’ll see how it all comes together.

Thanks as always for reading and have an excellent weekend!


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SR20DET Valve Cover Replacement

Back when I cleaned up the SR20 that would ultimately be swapped into my coupe in early 2020, I elected to send the valve cover out to TRG Coating for a refresh. TRG came highly recommended from a friend and from Zilvia, so I thought I would give them a shot (despite needing to ship the valve cover out of state.) Even with the cost of shipping, their prices were very reasonable and the work was top-notch. I can’t say enough about how positive the experience was.

Since my goal with the engine bay in the coupe was to keep things looking relatively factory, it only made sense to try to replicate the OEM SR20DET valve cover color. My friend Greg had recently had his cover redone in this color scheme and was kind enough to share the color combination with me. It turned out so nice, in fact, that I decided to hold onto a spare valve cover from one of the other SR20s I parted out in order to have a matching cover coated for my hatch.

My current valve cover that I had coated in 2009.

Fast forward to last week, where I finally collected just about everything I needed to swap the new cover onto the hatch’s SR20. I ended up purchasing new OEM nuts and washers for securing the cover (which are entirely too expensive for what they are), a fresh coil pack cover, a PCV refresh kit with valve and supporting hoses, and gaskets for the spark plug tubes and valve cover itself. I bought most of these items from my long time friend Russell at NissanParts.cc.

Fortunately, removing the valve cover on the SR20DET is pretty straightforward. I started by removing the coil pack cover and coil packs. Next, I disconnected the PCV/breather hoses from the various attachment points on the cover. Finally, I removed the 13 nuts and washers that hold the valve cover to the head. Make sure all of your wiring is disconnected from the front of the cover, and you should be clear to lift it off of the engine.

See that small gasket missing in the middle? Well, I didn’t when I took this photo… I always add a small amount of RTV to the half-moon shape portions of the gasket. I am still mad at Nissan for them making the gasket maker that comes with an SR20 gasket kit orange instead of black…

After replacing the main gasket and spark plug tube gaskets, I bolted up the fresh valve cover. In fact, things went so smoothly that I didn’t even realize that I did not install the small circular gasket in the center of the valve cover until I was completely finished with the job and was putting my tools away… doh! So I got to experience the installation process a second time. I had just put a full gasket kit on the SR20 in my hatch not too long ago now, so I was able to reuse the gasket I had. If you want to get all new gaskets for your valve cover though, make sure you get these part numbers: 13270-52F00 (x1), 13270-53J13 (x1 – this is the one I forgot about), and 13271-52F00 (x4).

After the valve cover was sorted out, I installed most of the new PCV hoses that came with the NissanParts.cc kit. This included the long line off of the PCV valve (as well as a new valve), the two small L shaped breather hoses it connects to above the fuel rail, and the two hoses that connect the OEM catch can to the valve cover and drain tube. I am running a factory Nissan airbox and catch can on my coupe, and am hoping to source the needed items to do the same on my hatch soon. I never thought I would see the day where I desired that sort of look, but it really cleans the engine bay up nicely. It’s great to not have an air filter flopping around loosely in there.

I’ll be replacing the vent hoses on this side with OEM ones soon- I just need to get a hold of a factory catch can and airbox. I need to order clamps for the PCV hose still as well.

So there you have it! A fresh valve cover for the hatch. I decided to hold onto my old wrinkle red valve cover as a garage decoration- at least for the time being. This valve cover is the original blacktop cover that came with my hatch when I bought it. Inspired by Kuruptr on Zilvia, I had it redone in wrinkle red in early 2009. I sold this valve cover with the engine when I parted my car out in 2012. When I bought the rolling chassis back, the guy I sold the engine to still had it- but wanted a lot more money for it than I had sold it to him for two years prior. However, he was willing to trade me valve covers so that I could have my old one back. It’s kind of a silly story, but it’s kind of cool to me I guess. Maybe it will look nice on display in the garage somewhere.

I should probably make an SR20 coffee table one of these days, eh?

Anyway, that’s about the extent of what I accomplished this week! I have some other cool stuff to share in the month of February though that I am really excited to post about. And hey, now that I mention it, I’ve made it a month into 2021 writing a new post every Friday- not bad! Let’s keep the streak alive.

My hope is to buckle down a bit this week and get my plans in order for what I truly want to accomplish with the cars prior to the weather ideally begins to break in April. Once those tasks are finalized and the parts are here, I want to try to keep a fairly aggressive schedule to ensure both cars are ready to drive as soon as the weather allows. 2021 is going to be a great year and I’m super excited to finally enjoy driving again.

I hope things are going well in your world- thanks for reading along. Have a great weekend!


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Garage Tuning

It’s no secret that my garage itself is a bit neglected in a lot of ways. I try to keep it relatively organized for how much junk is actually in there, but a lot of it could certainly be much tidier and nicer than it is. I’m fortunate to have such a space to enjoy my hobby, and it’s a fairly large garage all things considered. A three stall would definitely be nice, but it gets the job done.

I recently decided to spruce the garage up a bit by way of making some improvements to the door itself. I ended up getting a couple of items for Christmas from my in-laws that I had been researching as of late- the first being a new rubber seal for the bottom of the door. I noticed a while back that my seal had become flattened, brittle, and even torn in a couple of places. When we get blowing snow, I would find miniature snow drifts at the corners and in the center of the garage from snow getting blown in under the cracks in the seal.

It was simple enough to remove the old seal- it simply slid out. The new one, however, was much more of a hassle. I ended up finding that lubricating the track and the seal itself with WD-40 helped immensely with getting the new seal to slide into the metal track at the bottom of the door. It was a tedious process and not the easiest thing to do by myself, but I was able to get it done. It’s very satisfying to shut the door now and have a proper seal with the cement floor.

The other item I got for Christmas and recently installed was an insulation kit for the back side of the door. My home was built in 2003, so it’s got a bit of an older style door on it that isn’t insulated on the inside. I watched a couple of YouTube videos on how to install the kit and got to work. I ended up breaking up the install over two nights, but it wasn’t too bad of a process at all. I definitely should have done it in the summer, but I ran my space heater to ensure that the tape was tacky enough.

I was pleased to find that the material is very lightweight. Someone had mentioned their garage door motor burning out due to the added weight of their insulation kit, so that had me a bit concerned. I had to trim the sheets both vertically and horizontally, so it’s not perfect- but I think it turned out well. I ended up unbolting all of the hinges and reinstalling them over the insulation to help hold it in place should the tape fail.

Half way through installation. The kit included the double sided tape.

I can’t say I have noticed a massive improvement from these changes, but hopefully it’s doing something. It’s been crazy cold this week, so I guess I don’t expect it to stay too warm in the garage. I suspect my walls are not actually insulated behind the drywall which is unfortunate- that’s definitely something I would love to do, but the cost would probably be out of reach. My oldest daughter’s room is above the garage, so it would help a lot with the temperature swings in her room if I could insulate the garage better,

One aspect of my garage that people have teased me about for years is the lack of paint on the walls. It’s just one of those things that I have never prioritized from a time or cost standpoint. The drywall was crudely mudded and sanded when the home was built, but it still needs some work to be decently nice. I don’t really have experience with this process and I’ve just never managed to make myself do it. I would love for this year to finally be the year that I get some paint on the walls, but we’ll see if it actually happens.

But before I can paint, there’s another issue I need to address- the ceiling. I’ve had a leak in the ceiling for a few years now and have tried caulking various areas on the outside of the house to no avail. We’ve even had the entire roof replaced a few years back, but the leak persists during heavy rain from the North. I’m told this is a flashing issue, but I haven’t pinpointed the exact origin. I’m at the point where I am ready to pay a contractor this spring to repair the leak once and for all, as well as install a new piece of drywall.

The other thing I really want to do is have my floor coated. This has been a dream of mine for a very long time, but the lack of paint on the walls has kept me from ever moving forward with it. I’m hoping to finally look into this a bit this spring as well and see if I can manage to get it done. It would be amazing to finally have a nice looking floor.

I briefly considered building a workbench, but I really don’t want to sacrifice the space. I suppose I could build some permanent shelving and integrate it into that at some point down the road, but who knows. For where I currently find myself in life, this just sort of works. I would really like to build a shed in the back yard someday to house all of our lawn and garden tools as well as the girls’ toys, but that’s probably just a pipe dream for the time being. As the kids get older, maybe the number of toys will diminish a little bit… but we’ll see. All things that I often think about but never really address.

I had planned to spend some time working on my cars this week, but as the free time rolled around it was in the single digits at night and I just didn’t want to drag myself out there. I do plan to tinker a bit this weekend though and take care of somethings that have been on my list, so I’ll share some of that work with you next week! I need to install my NeXt Miracle Cross Bar on the hatch as well as the freshly powdercoated valve cover and gaskets, so expect some details around those projects soon.

I hope you have a great weekend! Thanks for stopping by.


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Achievement Unlocked: Dual Wield

My efforts in the garage this week resulted in the realization of a fairly significant milestone that I’ve dreamed of reaching for the last several years: I am now the owner of not one Nissan 240SX, but a pair of them- a 1993 fastback and a 1992 coupe. Sure, in typical S-chassis fashion they’re both a minimum of three different colors right now (the coupe being seven different colors,) but they are in fact running, driving vehicles that more or less include nearly ever component that I would like them to.

That’s a pretty big deal for me.

But before we get into all that, let’s talk a little bit about the progress on my original S13- the hatch. I think I have driven this car at least once every year I have owned it, but some years have definitely been lighter than others. After selling my Mercury Silver TE37s (for the second time) in June of 2019, the car sat for the majority of the summer “fun car” season here in Michigan. This was somewhat difficult for me to handle at the time, but it’s the sacrifice I chose to make in favor of larger obligations to my family and personal finances. It was tough, but at least I got to drive it for a couple months before putting the car away.

The hatch being put away in mid June 2019.

Enter 2020: I stumbled upon a great deal on a set of 17/18 AVS Model V and decided I could swing it. I got my tires mounted up and installed some GK Tech spacers to get the fitment decent. The car didn’t look terrible by any means, but the Model V definitely left something to be desired for me. As fate would have it, COVID swept over the world and essentially killed any real opportunity to drive the car. With being constantly stuck at home and uncertainty with my job, I ultimately decided to flip the Model Vs, put the hatch back on jack stands, and focus my efforts on the coupe build. That’s the way things stayed through the end of 2020- the hatch spending the majority of the last two years in my garage on stands, running and complete, without any wheels.

The short-;oved AVS Model V setup from Spring 2020. The car spent about two weeks on the ground last year.

Towards the end of 2020, the gentleman I sold my old front pair of bronze TE37 reached out to me and asked if I would be interested in buying them back. He had taken great care of them so I couldn’t pass up the opportunity. I expected the search for a rear pair to be long and difficult, but thanks to a tip from a friend I was able to source a matching rear pair somewhat quickly. I kept my Advan Flevas from the silver TE37s since they essentially only had a trip to Shawano and back on them and used those again for the new setup.

The specs on this bronze set of TE37 aren’t ideal like the Mercury Silver set, but they could be worse. This set is 17x9J +22 and 18×9.5J +22. I moved my +11mm Project Kics wheel spacers to the rear of the car to bring those to +11 effective offset, then purchased a pair of +15mm spacers for the front to bring the effective offset to +7mm. The result is a rear setup that’s 1mm more aggressive than the silver TE37, and a front setup that is +3mm less aggressive. Not perfect, but I can live with it for now. I also grabbed another set of Muteki steel lug nuts for the hatch since my previous set made their way onto the coupe during the build.

After a few weeks of navigating the holidays and waiting for the right opportunity to make the 30 minute drive to see my friend Jalen in Lansing, I was finally able to get the tires mounted up last weekend. Jalen is a fellow S13 owner and has had some really cool setups over the years. He’s always down to help me out with mounting and dismounting tires and works around my busy family schedule which I greatly appreciate.

The color matches fairly well in my garage- let’s see if the same holds true in the sunlight.

The moment had finally arrived. My wife had a Zoom call with some close friends from college this week and I was able to spend an evening in the garage bolting up the wheels and tires. Though the results are not really anything new or groundbreaking to me, I was still overcome with that feeling of excitement and accomplishment the first time I rolled the car off of the ramps and stepped back to take it all in. I stared in astonishment and muttered “that’s it” to myself. This is always the single best feeling of tinkering with these cars for me- stepping back and taking in the results of your carefully planned changes.

I would prefer to avoid the use of spacers, so this will likely be a temporary solution up front. I would like to convert to S14 front knuckles, control arms, and five lug hubs soon. We’ll see what happens.
I felt just as excited dropping the car on the ground as I did when I got my first set of TE37 back in 2011.

Yesterday Alexi and I went outside during my lunch break to move some cars around, shovel some snow, and grab some photos of the car back on the ground once again. Apparently my battery tender isn’t doing its job since the car wouldn’t start, but we rolled it outside anyway. The lack of clouds weren’t ideal for photos, but this was by far the warmest day in the forecast at 37° – so we had to take what we could get. I think the results weren’t too bad though all things considered.

My lawn is all torn up right now while a company installs fiber-optic internet in the neighborhood. I should Photoshop the flags out of these photos, but maybe I’ll revisit them later and get that done.

I was of course very concerned about the two pairs of TE37s matching. The front pair is a bit older than the rear, but both have the additional stamping along the lips that was added in 2011 or so. My previous rear pair of bronze TEs didn’t have this and it bugged me that the pairs didn’t match, so I was glad things worked out this time. The rear pair is newer and has a little more orange to the color, where the fronts have a more chocolate sort of hue. It’s very close, but I think it is just good enough that I can live with it. I almost get the feeling that if I didn’t point it out, 98% of people wouldn’t notice- so that’s probably just fine. I would prefer the older TE37s in the classic bronze finish like on Itai and Itoh’s cars, but that is getting so difficult to find these days.

Ride height needs to come up a pinch in the rear on this side. I’m hoping to make some rear subframe changes soon that will require that to be adjusted anyway though. Alexi shown here peeking out the window.

All in all, I think I am going to be really happy with this set of wheels. I think these will likely be keepers since it’s getting so difficult to find these things in OK shape for an affordable price. I know, I know… I’ve said that a few times before. We’ll see what happens. Despite it being fairly familiar, I think this is technically the first time the car has had bronze TE37s with OEM aero and Ganador mirrors. The N1 ducts are also a first for me and I am really excited to see them painted this summer. More on the Ganador mirrors in a future post.

Anyway, back to the realization that I have two of these things now. To be honest, I never had much interest in owning the coupe version of the S13. My interest in them came and went a few times over the years, but never got serious until 2016 or so. I always felt the 180SX just looked so much more aggressive with OEM aero than the Silvia did, and it just looked more like a sports car to me. But with a largely complete S13 hatch at home, I began to dream of owning a matching coupe as well. S13s were becoming scarce and Silvia front end parts were getting more expensive. My desire to own a coupe began to grow, and I even briefly considered parting out my hatch to build one. I’m pretty glad I didn’t.

Seeing both cars on the ground at the same time really is a wild feeling.

Alexi and I decided to roll the coupe outside as well to grab some photos of the cars together. And while I definitely questioned my sanity seeing both cars in the driveway at once, I also felt a massive sense of accomplishment. They’re not complete yet, and probably never will be, but they’re both mine. While all of the body panels aren’t painted, they’re all bolted in place. The black interiors are fully assembled. They both have running SR20DET engine swaps. This realization completely blows me away.

The coupe definitely looks a lot worse next to an S13 that’s nearly all one color, but it was still a cool thing to witness. I’ve just got to remind myself not to get discouraged and to enjoy the process they’ll get there eventually.

I only have one battery for the cars at the moment since I didn’t want to buy a brand new one for the coupe at the end of fall only to sit all winter, so after I got it charged up I was able to fire up both cars and back them into the garage again. So, I haven’t gotten to hop into each car and crank them up to hear them both run at the same time, but I look forward to that day this spring. What a crazy and silly feeling- two of the same darn car.

It’s a small undertaking to toss on a set of wheels and tires and roll two cars out of the garage, but this was a big day to me and a great start to my attempt at getting back into the swing of this hobby a bit in 2021. Sometimes a small step forward can feel like a huge milestone, and yesterday was for sure one of those days. I’m feeling very hopeful and excited for the future of my cars and this blog in the coming months. Life is crazier than ever, but I’m confident I can keep things moving!

You can’t take photos of the cars without at least one of the girls requesting a glamour shot.

Thank you as always for stopping by. It’s more of an ask than ever these days to try to get people to navigate to an actual website and read words, so I really appreciate everyone that is able to find some enjoyment and encouragement from following along. As always, don’t hesitate to drop me an email or DM (@camryonbronze) to chat or ask a question.

Have an awesome weekend!


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Headlight Tuning

One of the few things I have managed to mess around with on my cars in the couple weeks is the headlights on my hatch. (Editor’s Note: I know it technically should be called a fastback, but that just feels so strange to say. And I don’t want to call it a 180 because that bugs people too. So from now on, I’m just going to refer to the cars as my hatch and my coupe. Deal?) The headlight housings you choose for the iconic pop-ups have a drastic impact on the overall appearance of the car.

I’ve swapped back and forth between a few different options over the years as my tastes change. My experience includes generic eBay clear housings, Raybrig clear H4 housings, and Hella H4 housings. The other option I have considered for years is the Cibie H4 that Mike from ClearCorners.com used to always preach about on Zilvia.net, but I could never bring myself to spend the money and track a pair down. Mike used to always say those by far had the best light output.

For me, it’s never really been about light output as much as it has been the aesthetic. Raybrig housings have a very clean and sleek look that updates the front end of the car a bit. During some of my more OEM+ phases, I have ditched the Raybrigs in favor of Hellas. That’s what I had on my car for the last few years, but I recently wanted to give the Raybrigs a try once again.

I decided it might be helpful to document the visual difference between three different H4 headlight options for the S13- Hella, Raybrig Clear Type, and Raybrig Blue/Purple type. My previous sets of Raybrigs were always the clear type, but I bit the bullet and tried ordering the blue/purple type this time to see if I liked it. As fate would have it, the eBay seller sent me clear ones- so I had to order another pair of the blue/purple version from a different seller.

From Left to Right: Hella, Raybrig Clear Type, Raybrig Blue/Purple Type.

Here’s a side by side comparison of the two Raybrig options. The blue tint is fairly subtle, but you can definitely tell it’s there when compared to the clear type. Be sure to take note when you order these as some sellers sell the housings individually, and others sell as a pair. I was bummed to find I had been duped into ordering one light rather than a pair and had to order a second one. Rather than taking risks with eBay like I did, I would recommend ordering from a reputable retailer like RHD Japan just to be safe.

I tossed one of the blue Raybrigs on the car to grab some side by side photos of the visual difference between these and the Hellas. It definitely changes the look of the car quite a bit for something so simple. One key difference to note is that the Hella lenses are glass and the Raybrigs are plastic. I did have a Hella lens spider crack once a few years back from getting hit by a stone on the highway. Please excuse my aero items that are still unpainted- hope to address that before spring arrives!

Blue/Purple Raybrig on the left, Hella on the right.
There’s a major visual difference between the two types.

I was curious about the beam pattern and light distribution, so I snapped a photo of that as well. Honestly, I didn’t see as much of a difference as I expected to. I’ve always thought the Hellas were superior, but it’s not as drastic of a difference as I expected. I’m no lighting expert though…

Hella on the left, Raybrig on the right.

And finally, here are a couple photos to compare the clear Raybrigs vs the blue/purple version. It’s a little difficult to capture the color difference, but hopefully this info is helpful to people struggling with which option to choose like I did.

Blue/Purple type on the left, clear type on the right.

I ultimately decided to stick to my guns and run the clear type Raybrigs this time around. I like the blue/purple version a lot and think they’re really cool, but the clear type just seems to compliment my car a bit more in my opinion. I think the blue would suit the car more if it was a bit more wild, i.e. large aero and aftermarket seats etc.

Are there other options out there like projector retrofitted and LED housings? Yes. But in my personal opinion, those just don’t flow well with the type of S13 I hope to build. I’m sure the light output is much better, but I personally just don’t care for the look of those newer-age solutions. It’s probably silly to sacrifice drivability and visibility for the sake of appearance, but that’s sort of what this hobby is about in a lot of ways right?

So there you have it! Hopefully this info helps you out with your headlight decision for your pop-up equipped S13. I do plan to pick up some LED headlight bulbs for both of my S13s this winter, so perhaps I’ll check in with an update on how those work out. I’ll likely leave the other lights on the cars as normal halogen bulbs, but we’ll see.

Thanks as always for stopping by to follow along with my garage shenanigans. I hope you have a great weekend!


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Welcome to 2021!

Greetings and Happy New Year! It’s been a while since I checked in- over three months in fact. I would like to say I have gotten a lot done with my cars since then, but that’s pretty far from the case. To be honest, I can’t really remember the last time I spent an evening in the garage with my tools out tackling specific projects. Once the coupe was somewhat complete and in a running state, I sort of abandoned any kind of work in the garage and got swept away by life’s priorities.

There’s no disputing that 2020 was a difficult year for just about everyone. However, it was also a really great year for me in a lot of ways. While we were all impacted by things like being laid off from jobs, kids having to attend virtual school, and generally feeling tethered to our homes, I did experience some exciting life changes like starting a new job and getting my coupe on the road. Despite all of the difficulties that 2020 brought my way, I don’t think I could really say it was any worse than any other year in my life- and for that I feel extremely thankful. It was definitely different in ways I could have ever imagined, but many good things came my way as well.

With a new year comes new ambitions. While nothing has truly changed aside from the date, and many of the same challenges from last year will continue into the new one, it can still be a great opportunity to make changes in your life and set some goals for the months ahead. One of my somewhat lofty goals for myself this year is to attempt to post something here once a week- even if it’s fairly quick and lacking major changes to my cars. Goals like this can easily promote burnout and pressure you into creating sub-par content since your heart isn’t really in it, but I am excited to give it a try. I’ve done this in the past and failed, but I still feel it would be a cool goal to realize.

Yes, the pop cans have been steadily piling up since COVID began. Things got a little crazy, haha. I haven’t had a can yet in 2021 though!

Here are a couple quick photos of how my garage sits currently. You may notice a few subtle changes since my last post, but for the most part things are very much like they were last September. However, I plan to dive into the details around a couple small things that I have been working on in the weeks ahead- the idea being to complete a new blog post around lunchtime every Friday. I finally upgraded my tired old iPhone 7 to a 12 this week, so hopefully photo quality will improve a bit going forward. I was definitely due for an upgrade!

The coupe is still a million different colors and will be for the foreseeable future.
A couple things look different on the hatch though…

The stage of life I find myself in currently is just crazy. Between trying to accomplish working from home (my office returned to full-time virtual work in November due to a new order from the governor of Michigan,) getting a third and first grader to school every morning (my kids are still attending in person for the time being thankfully,) and having a third kiddo at home, my wife and I are completely exhausted by the time we get to sit down each night. This doesn’t always lend itself to finding time to spend in the garage.

I’m still loving the overall stance and wheel/tire setup on this car.
Concerned about the ride height for drivability but I am in love with the overall presence it has.

My mindset about the cars has shifted a bit in the last six months, and I don’t really find myself contemplating selling them nearly as often as I used to – or much at all, really. I’ve transitioned a bit to understanding that some stages of life are busier than others, and I’ll simply get to them when the time is right. Of course, finding a new job with a bit more security has certainly helped that mindset. With the prices of S13s and their associated parts skyrocketing in the last year, it only makes sense to simply let the cars sit and address them when I can. That being said, I am definitely excited for the weather to break as I have every intention of registering and street driving both of these cars as much as I possibly can this season.

Just let me get the .5x camera out of my system and I’ll return to normal photos – I promise.

In any case, thanks a lot to everyone that stops by to read this or reaches out to me via email or Instagram to share their own passion and motivation. Messages like that really make me feel great and motivate me to get things moving again in my own garage. If you’ve reached out and I still owe you a response, I hope to get to that sometime this weekend. I’m planning to get organized and come up with a rough plan moving forward for the remainder of the winter season to hopefully have these cars in decent shape when the weather finally breaks in April or May.

If you’re into podcasts or want to catch a rare glimpse of me actually showing my face online, check out Jimmy’s podcast next Wednesday. He’ll be sharing more details around timing on his Instagram next week (@jyw0rld). Looking forward to getting back in the swing of things and chatting about S13s with him and anyone that happens to tune in!

Happy New Year y’all! Don’t hesitate to drop me a line if you have questions or if there is anything I can help with- or even just to chat! Have an excellent weekend.


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Fall Begins

I can’t believe another two months have passed since my last post. Some portions of 2020 have felt like they are dragging on for an eternity, while others pass in the blink of an eye. Back in late July, I had just gotten the coupe out of the garage for the first time- and I had just found out that I lost my job.

Almost exactly one month after losing my job, I accepted a new position as a graphic designer for a recruiting firm in metro Detroit. It’s a change of pace for me to work at a smaller company, but so far I am finding the work to be very rewarding. I have been working three days per week in the office and two from home which is also a nice perk. The new position has brought a much needed dose of normalcy to my life during these crazy times. Combine that with my daughters going back to school (in person no less) and life is really starting to get busy again.

My new job is about a 55 mile commute one way, so that’s the biggest change from my previous gig that was located only a mile from home. It’s tough not spending as much time with my wife and kids, but I have been enjoying the drive for the most part. This means I’ll have plenty of opportunities to log some miles on my S13s next year when I register them again, so I am looking forward to enjoying them if things work out as I hope. My previous commute made it really difficult to find time to enjoy driving the cars.

So, with that out of the way, let’s backtrack and cover what has changed with the cars in the past two months. As one might expect, I haven’t devoted much time to them as of late. The last weeks of summer meant spending time outside with family, taking quick trips to the new family lake house up North, interviewing for jobs, and going back to school. I did manage to get a couple small tasks done though.


For starters, here are a few photos I took of the coupe the first time I got it out and was able to drive it. I know these shots will be significant to me for a long time to come, so I wanted to be sure I shared them here for reference down the road someday.

And a couple with the GTR grille fitted:

After getting the car on the road, I immediately found that the factory wheel bearings were trashed. I ordered a pair from Rock Auto and had my cousin press them for me at his work. I definitely noticed a reduction in noise after installing them, but I think the rear bearings might be junk as well. I’ll have to replace those at some point this winter to ensure everything is working properly. I’ll likely try to replace the CV boots at the same time.

August 9th (two days after Alexi’s third birthday!) marked the one year anniversary of when I brought the chassis home to my house for the first time. As is the custom, I had to take some comparison photos as a reminder of just how far the car has come in one year’s time. It’s always good to look back on your accomplishments as they serve as the best motivation to continue chipping away at the seemingly never-ending list of things that need to get done. It’ll actually be about two years since I bought the car this coming November, but I left it in storage at a friend’s place for a while before I officially rolled it into my garage and began working on it.

After a few weeks flew by, I finally put the coupe back in the air to take care of a few things- the first being a pair of Auto Collect Storm fender braces. These are a great addition to any street or drift car and keep your fender fitment looking solid.

The next item I installed was an Xcessive Manufacturing skid plate to protect the oil pan. I have the same one on my hatch and it has saved the engine many times. With the coupe being slightly lower, it was a no brainer to install one of these.

Lens was dirty… sorry about that, haha.

A new lower fan shroud was fitted after the previous one decided to hurl itself into the fan, breaking all of the mounting tabs. I’m not sure why that happened, but hopefully the issue is solved now.

With those things squared away, I switched gears to tackle the task of installing a brand new pair of fender liners on the car. This requires a fair amount of trimming and a bit of ingenuity on a lowered car, but it produces a much cleaner look than if you simply left them off of the car. I’m planning to post a more detailed how-to here soon, but check out my Instagram story highlights in the mean time (@camryonbronze) if you’d like to see what I am talking about.

While I had the front end apart, I finished trimming the Silvia Aero bumper to clear the front mount intercooler before bolting it firmly into place. I still want to play with the fitment a little bit, but at least everything clears now and it is firmly bolted into place.

My fenders were installed with random bolts I had hanging around, so I elected to replace them with all new bolts from Nissan. Who knows if these are the correct bolts, but they’re one of the part numbers I found when searching PS13 schematics- so they should work well.

The last order of business that I have yet to tackle is reinstalling the lights up front. The bracket for the passenger side headlight has some issues with the mounting holes, so I need to repair that before bolting them into place. Everything had just been mocked up more or less previously, so I’ll have to spend some time installing everything properly in the next week or so.


As has been the case for nearly all of 2020, the hatch continues to find itself on the back burner. I adjusted the idle and timing slightly when I was tuning those items on the coupe, so it’s nice that the car finally idles more closely to where it should. I’ve had a new OEM vacuum hose for the cold side sitting on the floor of the car for a while, so I finally got around to tossing that on. A small detail that doesn’t really make much of a difference other than providing a little personal satisfaction.

I did secure one cool item for the car a while back- another NeXt Miracle Cross Bar. This has always been one of my favorite parts for the 180SX and I began to miss having one again. I think this might be my fourth one of these- maybe I’ll actually hold onto it this time? I previously reverted back to running a rear seat and seatbelts so that I could take my daughters for rides, but I figured the coupe can probably serve this purpose in the future. It’s quieter and the ride is less harsh, so it makes sense for that car to remain a four seater- and the hatch can be a little more wild if I choose to take that route. We’ll see what the interior looks like by spring, but I am excited to install it once I receive some of the hardware that was missing.

Finally, I sent out a spare valve cover from an SR20 I parted out a while back to TRG for coating. I elected to go with the same color I did for the coupe so that both cars will match. It’s a very similar color to the factory valve cover which I like for whatever reason. I need to order a few things to install it but plan to get to that sometime this off season.

So that’s about it! Life has been very good but also very crazy these past few months so I just haven’t been able to get much done. It’s not really for a lack of motivation or desire to work on the cars, just a lack of time. Uncertainty with my career has also been a factor, but fingers crossed I am now in good shape on that front. This is the longest stretch I’ve ever gone without getting to enjoy my car, so I am looking forward to putting as many miles as I can on them next year when all of this craziness has died down.

I recently got a request from someone to document how I went about tucking the exhaust on the coupe and steps I take to avoid major exhaust damage and leaks, so I am hoping to write about that soon. I’ll also be sure to place the fender liner how-to info here as well since people seemed to enjoy that. If you have something you’re curious about that you’d like me to explain in more detail sometime, feel free to drop me a line here or via Instagram! I would love to get back into the swing of posting more often and providing some useful content again.

I hope everyone is doing well- thanks as always for taking the time to swing by and read my rambling!


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Return from Hiatus

About twelve weeks have passed since my last post here- the longest drought in a while. Fortunately the weeks away from maintaining the blog have not been without progress on the automotive front. As I am sure is the case for most of you, life is still fairly upside down due to the continued fight against COVID-19. After spending the last thirteen weeks away from my job as a graphic designer on furlough, I was notified this week that my position has been eliminated. It’s a bit unsettling to get news like that, but fortunately my company is going to some pretty crazy lengths to ensure that employees that have been laid off will be supported during this difficult time. I’m a firm believer that everything happens for a reason and I will land somewhere better from all of this, it just might take some time to get there.

In the spirit of making lemonade when life decides to throw you a few lemons, I can say this has been one of the best summers of my adult life. Thanks to the state and federal unemployment support during this global pandemic, I have been able to spend the last three months home with my family during the best weather Michigan has to offer. You would think this would afford me with endless time to work on my cars, but it’s not always easy to get things done with three little girls around. I can’t tell you how many times I have had to reorganize my socket set thanks to Alexi wreaking havoc on it as a distraction while I wrench on the car, but it has been nice to be able to work on things during daylight hours from time to time.

While I have taken it relatively easy on the wrenching front during this time to focus on my family, I do have a fair amount of progress to share. Let’s split things up into months to try to backtrack a bit and keep things organized.


As you may remember from my last post, I began the month of May with the cash from my AVS Model Vs in my PayPal account and a decision to make. I had just dropped the stock rear subframe from the coupe and was trying to decide if I should use those funds for getting a new set of wheels for the hatch or the suspension overhaul on the coupe. With no real end in sight to the odd state of our day to day lives during COVID, I made the decision to move forward with the suspension overhaul on the coupe. This would not only give me some goals to work towards and keep me busy, but it simply seemed like the right direction to go since I couldn’t really even renew the registration on the hatch and probably wouldn’t be taking it on any road trips this summer anyway.

I began by stripping the rear subframe down and giving it a lengthy cleaning. There were inches of dirt and grime all over it, so this took a lot of time and elbow grease to accomplish. When I finally had it all cleaned up, I hit it with a few coats of Rustoleum semigloss black paint. I probably should have powder coated it, but didn’t really want to deal with the extra cost and wait time with everything going on right now. I did the same with my hatch years ago during the suspension overhaul and don’t really regret it. For a car that sees a decent amount of street duty it just seems to make sense.

I’ve had a couple of new JDM-OEM trunk lock setups sitting around for my coupe build for quite some time now, so I decided to install the rectangular version for the heck of it. Both Silvia trunk locks are super cool and add a lot to the look of the exterior, even if the car hasn’t been painted yet. Definitely one of those small details that I am really geeked about.

I next turned my attention to replacing the aging rubber bushings on the car. I picked up a ball joint press from Amazon that ended up really coming in handy. I used this to remove the rear ball joints as well as the bushings from the rear uprights. I initially wanted to purchase NISMO rear lower control arms, but decided to just install replacement bushings and ball joints to save some cash. This proved to be an annoying decision that likely wasn’t worth the cost savings, but more on that later.

As the month of May continued to fly by, parts seemed to arrive almost every day. A majority of the items were purchased via Rock Auto, which some will likely scoff at. At the end of the day this vehicle is going to remain a basic street car, so this decision made sense from both a cost and practicality standpoint. I elected to keep the factory brake setup on the car since I planned to utilize 15″ four lug wheels, so that kept things relatively simple. I sourced replacement brake rotors, remanufactured calipers, front lower control arms, rear ball joints, a new brake master cylinder, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, and a number of other parts to essentially replace virtually every component of the brakes and suspension. On a chassis with well over 300k miles on it, this was a no-brainer.

For the aftermarket side of things from a suspension standpoint, I went with a number of replacement items from NISMO, including front and rear lower control arm bushings, rear upright bushings, and rear subframe bushings. The majority of the other suspension items I replaced were from Moog as I’ve heard great things about them over the years.

As for coilovers, I once again stuck with my go-to setup from Stance Suspension in Chicago, Illinois. John Kim at Stance has been a huge supporter of my cars over the years and was even gracious enough to include a set of shorter springs up front so that I didn’t have to preload them at all to meet my height goals.

At some point along the line I misplaced my front suspension nuts, so Russell at NissanParts.cc was kind enough to help me out with a set. This allowed me to begin assembly of the front suspension. After painting the factory suspension components I had decided to reuse, I pressed the NISMO bushings into the Moog front control arms and bolted them up to the car, along with Tein inner and Moog outer tie rods.

From an adjustable arms standpoint, I ended up following the tried and true path of SPC tension rods, traction arms, rear upper control arms, and rear toe rods. I’ve used these arms a lot over the years on my hatch as they’re relatively affordable, simple in design and appearance, and utilize rubber bushings instead of heim joints or something more harsh. I was definitely tempted to go with a more old-school JDM solution like Cusco arms, but the cost savings and convenience made sense in this case.


With the front suspension bolted into place, I proceeded to installed most of the front brake components. Blank rotors, remanufactured calipers, and StopTech street brake pads were all snugged up to more or less complete the front suspension. The StopTech stainless brake lines were on a lengthy backorder and ironically took a long time to come in despite the fact that they’re located here in the states.

I had sourced a set of front and rear sway bar bushings from the 180SX in Japan only to find that they must not translate properly to the USDM chassis. I was able to make use of the front bushings after I trimmed a small portion of the rubber off of them, but the rears were not usable. I ended up ordering a set of Energy Suspension bushings for the rear as I couldn’t find the proper OEM setup and didn’t feel like waiting again for parts from Japan to arrive. The front sway bar was bolted into place with the trimmed Nissan bushings and Moog end links.

In attempting to press my NISMO bushings at home, I ended up destroying one of the rubber bushings on the rear knuckles that mounts to the rear toe arms. I had to order a replacement from Japan and found that it was backordered until mid July, but decided to order it and wait things out. I ended up waiting to press my bushings until I could do them with my buddy Tim at his shop since he had better equipment to press bushings than I did at home.

While waiting for a free evening to go to Tim’s shop, I decided to mount up the HKS Hi Power catback I purchased locally back when everything hit the fan to see what it sounded like. I found it on the local S13 for sale group on Facebook and the deal was too good to pass up. I had my concerns about ground clearance, but decided to give it a shot. When paired with the Magnaflow high flow cat converter and stock SR20 airbox, the car sounds super tame- a welcome change from what I am used to. I thought my hatch was quiet, but this setup is even quieter. I love the look of the classic canister on the coupe as well. I elected to utilize the same polyurethane exhaust hanger bushings on my coupe to try to maintain as much ground clearance as possible.

I finally managed to find the time to head out to Tim’s shop to press the bushings one night in mid June. The rear lower control arm bushings are a huge pain to remove, but Tim got them out with his air chisel. After pressing the bushings into the rear uprights and lower control arms, we turned our attention to the rear subframe. We tried to just use the air chisel and avoid the whole burning thing, but sadly the bushings were in too good of shape and fire needed to be utilized. Exhausted and ready to wrap up for the night, we hit a snag pressing the first of the four subframe bushings. We didn’t properly clean and lube the subframe causing the bushing to snag and ultimately be destroyed. I ended up leaving the subframe at his work and taking home my other suspension components feeling a bit defeated.

Shortly after that fiasco, I received a small order of items from NissanParts.cc that included small things like front bearing grease caps, some hardware that I needed, and a fresh set of door strikers with hardware. You can’t beat the feeling of a set of fresh strikers- definitely worth it!

I noticed that coolant had been leaking from the pinch rail near the passenger door when I let the car warm up long enough for the thermostat to open for the first time. This was really confusing to me until I finally realized what was going on- the heater core was leaking. I ended up having to remove and dry the carpeting, take out all of the dynamat on the passenger floor (since it got coolant under it,) and rip the whole interior apart again to remove it. Fortunately I sourced a replacement from Rock Auto and it arrived very quickly, allowing me to get it all buttoned up again relatively quickly. What a hassle though- I’ve never had to deal with this before and hope I never have to again.

While the interior was apart once again, I caved and decided to paint my gauge cluster bezel and buttons with some SEM interior paint. It turned out great and matches the shifter trim and center console quite nicely now. I was hesitant to do it before and decided to be lazy, but since I had to remove it again I decided to take care of it.

As June came to a close, I took my Work Equip 40s to my friend Jalen to have the 195/50/15 Advan Flevas mounted up. While Jalen was mounting the tires, I went over to Tim’s shop with the replacement NISMO subframe bushings in hand (thankfully it wasn’t backordered and arrived in less than two weeks) to press it in and finish my subframe. This time things went off without a hitch and I headed home with my fresh wheels and tires and completed subframe in tow ready to make their way onto the car.

Now it was time to get to work- I partially assembled the rear subframe with the SPC adjustable arms and other refreshed components. With the bare minimum of suspension items mocked up, I tossed the subframe back on the car so that I could roll the rear quarters. My fender roller was loaned to me from my friend Greg, so it made sense to just quickly mock it up to get the quarter panels taken care of so that I could return it to him. I elected to just roll the panels flat this time instead of pulling them like I did on my hatch- something I have grown to regret over the years. I also lightly rolled the front fenders to make clearance for the tires.

I was also able to solve one of the few remaining pieces to the puzzle after a lucky score on the local Facebook pages. I found a pair of S14 seats in pretty solid condition for a great price. After a decent amount of elbow grease they turned out fairly nice.


This brings us to the month of July. After rolling the rear quarter panels, I dropped the subframe once more to undercoat the rear portion of the car. This went fairly smoothly and cleaned things up substantially. I probably should have dropped the fuel tank and undercoated above it, but I knew this would make me want to install a brand new tank- another expense I couldn’t afford at the time. I didn’t let temptation get the better of me and left it all in place for now.

I elected to reinstall the subframe without addressing the factory open diff or axles for a number of reasons, the first being cost savings. I am not sure when I will have the funds for a proper diff setup and a refresh on the CV boots, but I really wanted to be able to get the car on the ground and drive it before the end of the summer. As tough as it was to toss those gross items back onto the car, it was necessary in order to make progress. Hopefully I can address that stuff this winter sometime.

With the diff and axles snugged up to the subframe, Alexi assisted me with bolting it into place for good. You wouldn’t expect a two year old to be very helpful with this tedious task, but it actually helped a lot to have her pump the jack up while I worked to ensure the subframe was going onto the car evenly. From this point I was essentially off to the races. I finished installing the rear suspension and brakes, again choosing to go with blank rotors and StopTech stainless lines and pads.

One item that came up around the time that I discovered the leaky heater core was when I realized that the bearing in my power steering pump had gone bad. I ended up finding a rebuilt one from a fellow named Ivan on Instagram, so I installed that after finishing the rear subframe.

After a long wait, the front Stoptech stainless brake lines finally arrived. After bolting those into place, I was nearly ready to put the car on the ground for the first time. All I needed to do was grease the ball joints and tie rod ends- easy, right? I have never owned ball joints that require greasing before, so this was surprisingly new to me. I picked up a grease gun at AutoZone (first mistake) that gave me a heck of a time getting it to work properly. After taking the grease fitting portion apart about fifteen times, I finally got it to work.

July 6th brought the moment of truth- my first time pulling the car out of the garage. After adjusting the ride height for what felt like weeks, I finally started it up and drove it into the driveway. There was only one problem- I dragged just about everything imaginable under the car when exiting the garage. This sort of surprised me since this is not an area that has every caused issues with my hatch, but I knew things were going to be different with the small wheel setup.

I spent some time messing with the height and fitment after this but just couldn’t manage to make things work. After talking to some people that run similar setups online, I elected to step up to a 195/55/15 Advan Fleva instead. While waiting for the tires to arrive, I removed the PBM Cobra downpipe from the car and hammered the floor pan a bit to get some additional clearance for the exhaust to tuck up higher on the chassis. For some reason the cat converter hangs lower on my coupe, but the downpipe was hitting the floor preventing me from tucking it any higher. I believe this to be a result of the NISMO engine mounts, but I could be wrong. After massaging the floor a bit I was able to get everything to tuck up nicely.

With the new tires in hand, I took the girls with me to see my friend Jalen once again this past Monday. He swapped the tires out for the 55 series for me, and man what a difference it made. I installed the wheels and tires when I got home before putting it on the ground and bringing it out of the garage once again- this time without any scraping. The new look is perfect in my opinion and affords me just enough clearance to drive the car around.

More photos from the car’s first day on the street coming in the next post…

Alicia and I spent the evening taking turns driving the car around the neighborhood shaking out little issues that come up with a freshly assembled car like adjusting the TPS and timing. I can’t describe what it feels like to drive a car for the first time that you brought home as an essentially bare shell- it’s very surreal. I parked the car in the street, set up my camping chair, and relaxed in the front yard that evening while the kids played with their friends in awe of the fact that it was finally out of the garage and moving under its own power.

I ended up opening my B Craft GTR front grille that I bought about a year ago on Yahoo Auctions to see what it looked like on the car. I definitely like the look and will probably switch off between that and the factory Silvia grille from time to time in the future.

Yesterday I buttoned up the interior by finishing the carpet install and bolting the passenger side S14 seat into place. I added small items that were missing including the door pulls and handle bezels, side mirror trim, and a pair of new window cranks. It’s amazing to see a complete black interior in the car considering what it looked like when I bought it.

I also spent some time swapping out the cracked tail lights for a cleaner pair that I kept from one of my part outs last year. Finally, I cleaned and reinstalled the rear trunk panels and carpeting. So cool to see a totally complete interior in this car!

So there you have it- all of this excitement of course being topped off by me losing my job. It was a wild range of emotions to experience in 24 hours, but life is like that sometimes. I am so glad I was able to get the car on the ground and drive it around before I received this news. I’ll continue to tinker and solve little issues for the remainder of the season, but will now turn my attention to finding a new job as soon as possible. The car will serve as a great distraction to keep me focus and positive in the mean time though.

Oh, and the hatch? Nothing has changed there. It’s still sitting on stands in the garage and will likely remain there until next season. Hopefully I will be able to pick up some wheels for it and address some of the issues it has before then, but it’ll remain on the back burner for the time being.

This is a crazy long post- my apologies! I will do my best to update a bit more frequently for the remainder of the year to keep things more manageable. Thanks to everyone that reached out to me during this time away to ask how the project was coming along and to check on myself and my family- I appreciate it! I hope to keep providing some interesting updates around the two clunkers in the future. Thanks as always for taking the time to read this and I wish you all the best with whatever craziness you might be facing right now.


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